Ginos and Johns Italian RED SAUCE Joints

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JOHN’S of East 12th Street
 
NEW YORK , NY
Photo Copyright 2016 Daniel Bellino-Zwicke
 
 
 
 
Gino’s of Lexington Avenue? This restaurant was
one of the most special restaurants that ever was. Ask any of the few hundred
regulars who ate there so many times a year. How many you ask? Well, there are
regulars who ate there 2 to 3 times a week, some once a week, some one or two
times a month, and some maybe four to six times a year, but all regulars.
That’s how it goes with regulars in restaurants, and this is a solid
foundation that all good restaurants need to succeed in New York. Gino’s had a
pretty long history for its regulars to enjoy for any number of years. The
restaurant opened in 1945 by Gino Circiello and two partners, was in operations
for 65 until it closed in 2010 after losing their lease. Needless to say this
was a sad day for all its devoted regulars which included the likes of; Gay
Talese, David Suskind, Frank Sinatra, many luminaries along with numerous
businessmen and women, and people in the fashion business, publishing, law, and
all sorts of businesses. Gino’s customers loved and revered the place, a
wonderful Italian Red Sauce Joint where you could get a great meal of solid
Italian classic dishes, at reasonable prices, with good service and a perfect
ambiance that included one of New York’s last remaining telephone booths and
the famed Zebra wallpaper. And it was the clientele that really made the
perfect ambiance that was Gino’s, which was par excellence.
Gino’s was filled to capacity each day and night
for lunch and dinner, jammed with people doing business, or just simply having
a great time eating Baked Clams Oreganta followed by Linguine w/ Clam Sauce,
Chicken or Veal Parmigiano or perhaps a daily special like Veal Ossobuco or
braised Lamb Shanks, the food was always good at Gino’s, everything was. The
people just loved it there. The vibe was always great, livelyThere was Gino and
later on Michael Miele (a former employee who became the owner), there was of
course the Zebra Wallpaper, the old-school waiters, the tasty food, and the
clientele themselves that filled the air of Gino’s dining room with good
natured chatter and that special feeling that a room full of happy people
makes. And you were always more than happy when you were in Gino’s.
Yes, Gino’s was a restaurant that’s now known as
an Old School Red Sauce Joint. This being a restaurant that had pretty much the
same standard dishes that so many people love, millions in fact. The menu had
items like; Caprese Salad, Baked Clams, both Casino and Oreganata, Seafood
Salad, Spaghetti w/ Tomato Sauce, or Bolognese, Manicotti, Ravioli, and Gino’s
famous Pasta Segreto with their famed Secret Sauce. You had all the
most popular chicken, fish, and veal dishes, dishes like; Chicken Parmigiano,
Veal Saltimbocca, Veal Piccata, Veal Milanese (Sinatra’s favorite), Shrimp
Scampi, Clams Posillipo another Sinatra favorite, Lobster Fra Diavolo and the
sort of solid Italian food that Italian-Americans and the rest of their
American brethren all loved and still love, regardless of what snobbish food
critics may say or think. For Gino’s clientele knew what was real, and Gino’s
was as real as it got. If you asked Frank (Sinatra) he’d set you straight, “Gino’s
is the Real Deal Baby.”
Well, so sadly, Gino’s closed in 2010. It was a
sad day indeed, and for regulars an actual tragedy, we lost our favorite
clubhouse of all. A place that was so special and uniquely wonderful you just
can’t replace. Yes a sad day indeed. Gino’s was irreplaceable, it’s a sin that
it died, never-the-less it did. This was a crime, a crime against New York,
Italian-America and Gino’s many devoted fans. If you knew Gino’s you’d surely
agree.
Yes, even Gino’s a historical Old School Italian
joint came to an end and died, a fate happening all over the country. We’re
losing our wonderful beloved Red Sauce Joints. Places that are a part of
American history, the history of Italian-America and even of Italy, as it was
the citizens of our motherland who came here and created Italian-American
Cuisine and Red Sauce Joints like our beloved Gino’s and other restaurants just
like it all over America. Farewell to Gino’s and places like Rocco’s in
Greenwich Village and all of our famous red sauce joints of years gone by.
Now hold on a minute. Yes we’ve lost many a great
red sauce joints in the past years, and even still. But guess what? With places
like Frankie’s Spuntino and Carbone in Greenwich Village, Red Sauce are now hip
and as beloved as ever. They’re among one of the hot new restaurant and
food-trends of most recent years. Unfortunately, Carbone is very expensive.
Frankie’s on the other hand is not, it’s quite reasonable and in the true
spirit of Old School Italian-American restaurants. Let’s hope this trend
continues and instead of so many flashy restaurant that are not in the spirit
of old school Italian-America, we need to get more restaurants like Frankie’s
and Rubirosa. And if we’re lucky some day, maybe someone will open another
Gino’s complete with all the old dishes like Pasta Segreto and the Scalamandre
Zebra Wallpaper of course, of which Gino’s would not be Gino’s. Gino’s we miss
you so.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Waiter Chats The Customers
 
With The Famed ZEBRA WALLPAPER
 
 
GINO’S of CAPRI
 
 
So now it’s a sad state of affairs when we talk of these wonderful old Red Sauce Joints of our lives. We’ve had many good time there; family dinners, meals with friends, and courting and such. These places provide the perfect ambiance with great food, wine, and the animated waiter or
two. But sadly not many are left. As you know, we lost Gino’s a few years ago
and numerous good old restaurants before that. In Manhattan where I live it
doesn’t even take the fingers of one had to count how many old Italian Red
Sauce Joints are left. There’s Rao’s up in East Harlem, one of the all-time
great new York City old-school Italian Restaurants with just the right ambiance
and wonderful old-school Italian food, but guess what, you can’t get in. The
place is sort of an exclusive club where people have a table reserved once a
week and there’s never any opening, unless you know one of these elite in the
know people, just Fuggetabout-it!
So there’s Rao’s up in East Harlem, Patsy’s in
mid-town, and John’s of East 12th Street down in the East Village.
John’s opened in 1908 and is still in business. Not only is it still in
business, but the place has been wonderfully preserved and retains its original
décor from 1908, the old tile floor, murals of Italian Cities and places like
Venice, Rome, The Bay of Naples, and more. They still have the original bar and
autographed pictures of movie stars and other celebrities from a large part of the
2oth Century.
The menu at John’s has most of the expected Red
Sauce dishes like; Spaghetti with White or Red Clams Sauce, Veal Saltimbocca,
Chicken Scarpara, Veal Piccata, Speedino of Mozzarella alla Romano, Baked Clams
Oreganata, Spaghetti & Meatballs, Lasagna, and Canneloni. The kitchen
churns out real solid food with standouts being there Baked Clams and their
Speedino alla Romano which is without question the best in the city.
John’s has quite a history with Lucky Lucciano
being a regular once upon a time, along with numerous mobsters back in the day,
and John’s has seen the likes of The Ramones, Cindy Lauper, John Lennon and
other luminaries walk through its doors.
There’s one other old Red Sauce Joint around the
corner from John’s, and that’s Lanza’s on 1st Avenue and 11th
Street. Lanza’s is actually a few years older than John’s opening in 1904.
Lanza’s is pretty nice and a good part of it has been preserved, although a few
years ago they made some changes to the décor which sort of ruined it a bit. Lanza’s
has that great classic red sauce joint menu with items like Spaghetti Marinara,
Pasta Fagioli, Manicotti, Braciole, Cannoli, and the like.
Now we come to Patsy’s on West 56th
Street in mid-town Manhattan. Guess what? This was Frank Sinatra’s all-time
favorite restaurant, he ate there hundreds of times over the years and just
loved it. It’s a great restaurant and if you go there, why not get some of
Frank’s favorite dishes? Frank’s favorites were; Clams Posillipo, Spaghetti
Marinara, and Veal Milanese. And yes, Sinatra went to Gino’s now and then, but
it’s a well known fact that Patsy’s was his favorite.
Well, that’s about it on red sauce joints,
they’re a dying breed I’m sorry to say. If you’ve never been to John’s, you
must check it out. This place is like a museum. Truly. The owners have
preserved its décor in an admirable manner, and what you see now is pretty much
what Lucky Luciano would have seen a 100 years ago. You’ll get a wonderful
experience here of days gone by. An experience you’ll not find at too many
places, so grab it while you still can. That was Gino’s.
 
 
 
EXCERPTED From MANGIA ITALIANO
 
Memories of Italian Food
 
2007 by Daniel Bellino Zwicke
 
 
 
MANGIA ITALIANO
 
 
Read About JOHN’S – GINO’S
 
 
RAO’S , PIZZA , PASTA
 
 
ITALY and More …
 
 
In MANGIA ITALIANO
 
MEMORIES of ITALIAN FOOD
 
 
by DANIEL BELLINO ZWICKE
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OLD SCHOOL ITALIAN
RED SAUCE JOINT
BUITONI’S SPAGHETTI BAR
NEW YORK , NY

MINORI PANORAMA with Ravello

 

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Villa Cimbrone
RAVELLO
The AMALFI COAST
ITALY

 

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Panino
SALAME e MOZZARELLA
At a BAR in AMALFI

 

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Villa Cimbrone
RAVELLO
ITALY

 

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Lemon Grove
VILLA MARIA
MINORI
ITALY
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MINORI
View From VILLA MINORI
On The AMALFI COAST
ITALY

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My Terrazzo
VILLA MARIA
MINORI
ITALY

 

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Minori
View From VILLA MARIA
The AMALFI COAST

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Breakfast
VILLA MARIA
MINORI

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A Small Farm
RAVELLO
On The AMALFI COAST
ITALY

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Me at VILLA CIMBRONE
RAVELLO
ITALY

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COOKING ITALIAN
GREATEST HITS COOKBOOK
The AMALFI COAST
FEAST of THE 7 FISH
and More  …
 
 
 
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MINORI
The AMALFI COAST

 

ITALY

 
 
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WORLD’S BEST BREAKFAST
 
 
VILLA MARIA
 
MINORI
 
ITALY
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My View at Villa Maria Minori

 

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The View From My Room at Villa Maria

Minori

Italy


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Lemons at Villa Maria

Minori


The Amalfi Coast





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The WORLDS BEST BREAKFAST
VILLA MARIA
MINORI

 

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My TERRAZZO
VILLA MARIA
MINORI

 

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Me and Vincenzo
The Owner of Villa Maria


MINORI

 

 

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Just Me

 

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A little picture Montage that sprung up on my Facebook Page

Thought I’d Post it Here

Top : Me Swimming in the waters off CEFALU , SICILY , Summer 2017

Me and Frankie Rayder hanging at some party in New York, 1999

Me at the TEATRO GRECO , SIRACUS , SICILIA , August 2017 ITALY

 

 

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Clams Casino Recipe

 

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CLAMS CASINO

Clams Casino was created in 1917 at the Little Casino at Narragansett, Rhode Island and has been a huge hit ever since. This dish has been a favorite Italian-American Classics, mostly in restaurants. The dish was hugely popular in the 1970’2 and 80’ s but has cooled off on popularity in recent years. It’s still quite popular, but not so much as in those peak years when it was on just about every single Italian Restaurant menu in America. Never the less, it’s tasty as heck, and still has a great place in the Italian-American Culinary World.

 

Recipe:

24 Littleneck Clams (or Cherrystones) 6 Bacon Strips.

Cook till lightly browned

½ pound Butter, soft at room temperature

1 small Red Bell Pepper, cleaned and diced fine

1 Green Bell Pepper, cleaned & diced fine

4 Garlic Cloves, peeled and minced fine

6 tablespoons Fresh chopped Parsley Salt & Black Pepper

1/2 cup Plain Bread Crumbs

Wash clams and place in a large pot with half a cup of water. Cover pot and turn on flame to high. Steam clams in covered pot just to the point that they have all opened. You need to mix the clams around in the pot with a wooden spoon while they are cooking. Cover pot after mixing. As soon as all the clams are opened remove from heat and set aside to cool. Dice 2 of the Bacon Strips fine and place in a mixing bowl with all remaining ingredients, except the bread crumbs. Season to taste with salt & black pepper. Mix all ingredients into the softened butter with a wooden spoon. After the clams have cooled, remove from pot and remove the top part of the calm shell while leaving the meat of the clam in the bottom half shell with any remaining juices from the clam (do not discard clam juice). Cut bacon into little squares that will fit into the clam shells. Place about 1 tablespoon of the butter mixture over the top of each clam.

 

This Recipe is Excerpted from SEGRETO ITALIANO  by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

 

 

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SEGRETO ITALIANO

SECRET ITALIAN RECIPES

and FAVORITE DISHES

by Daniel Bellino “Z”

 

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Mangia Italiano Tomato Sauce

 

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The following piece : TOMATO SAUCE is excerpted from MANGIA ITALIANO !

MANGIA ITALIANO Has ARRIVED

Available on AMAZON.com

 

TOMATO SAUCE

Tomato Sauce? Yes from the very beginning tomato sauce is a big part of our lives. In fact, quite a “Huge” part. We’re Italian and we eat a lot of it. We start at an early age, as soon as we’re able to eat solid foods. As you’ve already learned, we’re weaned on Pastina, those tiny little star shaped pasta, coated with a little butter. After that, besides pureed fruits and vegetables, and then mommy will give you some spaghetti that she’s cut up and coated with a little bit of your first tomato sauce, something you will eat for the rest of your life, “let’s not forget you’re Italian.” With all the wonderful dishes we have available to us, sometimes there’s nothing I want more than a nice simple plate of perfectly cooked Spaghetti Pomodoro, topped with a sprinkling of Olive Oil and grated Parmigiano or Pecorino on top, “there’s nothing better.”

   Ok, now whatever you call it; Sauce, Salsa di Pomodoro, Sugo di Pomodoro, or Tomato Sauce, it’s just that Tomato Sauce. So here we go. Without question Italian Food is the undisputed King of ethnic foods in America. Yes we love Chinese Food, which runs second to Italian, and Mexican, French, Thai, and all the rest, but Italian Food beats them all. What are the most popular foods consumed in America? You’d have to say Burgers, Pizza, Pasta, and Sandwiches are in the lead as concerning dishes eaten by most Americans. Spaghetti with Tomato Sauce is in the top ten for sure. Unfortunately, a lot of it is not very good. We’re talking about jar-sauce here, something “no self-respecting Italian ever eats.” You can actually say, when people eat Spaghetti in this manner, with not-very-authentic jarred tomato sauce, this so-called sauce (the Jar Kind) is not Italian or even Italian-American, it’s American, and bad American food at that. Please “Please” don’t associate it with Italian-America and the fine food we eat, “please don’t.” So if you eat pasta that is over-cooked, and mushy spaghetti with massed produced commercial Tomato Sauce from a jar? Then “you are not eating Italian,” nor Italian-American, but regular American (not Italian-American) home-convenience food, that’s quick, easy, and economical to make, and not very good at that. Just don’t call that kind of pasta Italian, ”It’s Not,” it’s American, OK, so don’t forget it. Do you get the point?

   So when we talk about Tomato Sauce (Salsa Pomodoro) we’re talking about fresh made Tomato Sauce , made with tomatoes, olive oil, fresh Garlic, Pepperoncino, and fresh Basil, cooked at home by you or some family member. And when I say fresh, that doesn’t mean that the tomatoes have to be fresh tomatoes, which are only in season about 8 weeks a year. The rest of the year fresh-tomatoes are inferior to the great product of canned tomatoes, or jarred Passata di Pomodoro (Italian Tomato Puree in glass jars) especially San Marzano Tomatoes that come from the environs in and around Naples, Italy. And there are many great brands of tomatoes canned in the U.S.A as well. One of the best ways of all to make a good homemade tomato sauce at home is if you have your own homemade Passata di Pomodoro from tomatoes grown in your own garden to full ripeness, or Passata that you made from fresh tomatoes that you bought in bulk at an inexpensive price when tomatoes are at the peak of the season. Many Italian-Americans make Passata di Pomodoro (Tomato Puree) from tomatoes they have grown in their backyard and picked at the height of perfect-ripeness perfection. Some people, if they don’t grow them will buy fresh tomatoes in bulk in season and make the passata. Some make the passata with a combination of tomatoes they grew in the garden, and along with a box or bushel of fresh tomatoes from a farm, farmers market, or wholesaler. This practice of growing your own tomatoes and canning them (actually in Glass Jars) is one of Italian-America’s great time-honored traditions, which many families still do to this day, along with another wonderful Italian-American family ritual of making your own homemade wine. But don’t fret if your family doesn’t do this, you can make some great sauce with many of the fine canned and jarred tomato products from America or imported from Italy.

 

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   Tomato Sauce is quite a wonderful thing. You can do many things with it; top a Frittata with a bit of your homemade sauce and grated Parmigiano and you’ve got a tasty little meal in no-time. You need a cup or so of tomato sauce to make Caponata and to add to so many Italian recipes as well. When you have a Tomato Sauce already made, you can make many other Pasta Sauces simply by adding different ingredients. You can make Pasta with Zucchini or Cucuzza (Googootz) by simply sautéing Zucchini or Cucuzza (large Italian Squash) in olive oil with garlic, salt, and pepper, adding some tomato sauce and you have a couple new sauces right there. Sauté some Mushrooms, add tomato sauce and you can make Spaghetti con Funghi (Spaghetti w/ Mushroom Sauce). To make the famous Sicilian dish Pasta alla Norma you sauté Eggplant in olive oil with garlic, add “yes, you guessed it,” Tomato Sauce, cook your pasta of choice, toss it with the eggplant and tomato sauce, grate some Ricotta Salata Cheese over the top, and you’ve got a classic plate of the famed Sicilian dish, Pasta alla Norma. Sauté some chopped anchovies with capers and olives, add your tomato sauce, and just like that you have Puttanesca Sauce for Spaghetti al Puttanesca, the sauce of the Neapolitan Ladies of The Night. All these tasty dishes because you’ve learned how to make Tomato Sauce, catch my drift, Capece? And that’s not all. When you have some tomato sauce on hand, you have the base for such wonderful Italian dishes as Eggplant Parmigiano, Veal Parm, or Chicken Parmigiano and more. You’ve got your tomato sauce, you can make all these things, and more. “The World is Yours Chico!”

 

Excerpted from “MANGIA ITALIANO” 

Just PUBLISHED , December 12, 2017

 

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MANGIA ITALIANO !

My Latest !

Just PUBLISHED December 12 , 2017

MANGIA ITALIANO will be Available in PAPERBACK on AMAZON.com

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PASTA con CUCUZZA

As I say in MANGIA ITALIANO in the chapter TOMATO SAUCE, which you can read above, once you have a Tomato Sauce made, besides making SPAGHETTI POMODORO , you can make many other dishes like Pasta con Cucuzza , simply by adding different ingredients in with the tomato sauce. The recipe for Tomato Sauce and other recipes and stories of Italian Food, are in Mangia Italiano, coming in December 2017. Just in time for Christmas. Buon Natale Tutti!

 

MANGIA ITALIANO is Available for iPhone & iPad

With KINDLE for iPhone or iPad at App Store and Amazon

 

 

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Learn HOW to Make FRANK SINATRA’S EGG SANDWICH

RECIPES and STORIES

in MANGIA ITALIANO !

 

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